K9Deb
Social Isolation
Social Isolation
FIRST THINGS FIRST
If your dog's aggression toward you is a new behavior it is mandatory that you have him examined by a
veterinarian before beginning this treatment. Everything from thyroid dysfunction to an abscessed tooth can
cause aggressive behavior. Even if the dog isn't displaying new behavior, if he hasn't had a complete physical
exam in the last six months, do it.
If your dog is an unaltered male any treatment for aggression is going to be an uphill battle. Neutering will
not solve the entire problem, but not neutering makes no sense. If 90 percent of his problem is hormone
overload, neutering will solve a lot of the problem. If it's only 20 percent of the problem, that's how much
improvement you'll see from surgery alone. If he's behaving aggressively and you've planned on breeding him
give some serious thought to whether or not this is a fleeting behavior issue. Perhaps those genes should
not be passed on. Spaying of bitches does not usually affect behavior unless the aggressive displays only
occur during a heat cycle.
WHAT IS DOMINANCE CONFUSION?
Aggressive *display* (growling, teeth baring, etc.) is one of the many tools a dominant canine has at his
disposal if he needs to control the behavior of a subordinate canine. The top ranked dog and the lowest
ranked dog are the two that rarely engage in aggressive *action* (bites). One rules the pack, the other
defers to the whole pack. It's the middle ranked dogs, the "beta" dogs, that will use aggression to further
their ranking.
Dominance confusion is created when a dog is totally confused about his place in the pack and uses
aggression (bites), or aggressive displays (growling, teeth baring), to answer the question "Who's in charge
around here anyway?". In a canine only pack there are clear lines drawn in the sand. The alpha gets control
of the resources, directs the hunt, breeds and makes any decisions affecting the group that need to be
made. The rest of the pack voluntarily follows his lead. The caricature of a snarling, nasty, dominant alpha
dog is not a correct one. The alpha male, for example, tolerates nearly everything the alpha female throws at
him without objection. However, their roles and their relationship are clearly defined. She follows his lead
when issues affecting the group are decided. The image of an alpha wolf throwing a subordinate onto his
back and threatening him with his life is not something based in reality. In a pack situation everyone knows
their place and the sub-dominant members of the group voluntarily roll over if they are being chewed out by
any higher ranked individual. If you've ever seen aggressive displays of this type they look and sound very
nasty, but when it's all over no one is injured or bleeding. Exceptions to "no harm done" aggressive displays
are when two dogs (males or females) are fighting over breeding rights, or when a younger and stronger dog
challenges the older, weaker or ill alpha. Another exception, and the one that is relevant to this discussion,
involves an alpha that is not necessarily ill or elderly, but is ineffective or lacking in leadership qualities. In a
canine pack situation there would be no dominance confusion because the ineffective leader would be
demoted and remain with the pack, would leave the pack or would be killed. There would not be a continual
struggle for that top spot on the pack ladder. If your pet dog is given the rights and privileges of a leader and
then corrected for not coming when called the leadership in your "pack" is constantly changing. There is
confusion.
WHY DOES MY DOG DO THAT?
Dogs live in social groups with well defined rules and well defined hierarchies. However, it's not all set in
stone. Within those parameters there is a lot of room for individual preferences. A subordinate dog, for
example, may protect his food from a higher ranking one. One of the less flexible rules is that in order for a
pack to be a pack there has to be a leader, a top dog. Your dog is getting messages from you that say you
want him to be the leader. That's not the message you intend to send, but it's the one he's getting. One of
the reasons this is so stressful for him is that he knows he's not alpha material. He might be shy or timid, he
might be a bully, but he knows he's not equipped for that top spot. The domestication of canines has resulted
in dogs that are perpetual juveniles. Our pet dogs don't reach the level of maturity that wild canids do.
Vocalizing is one of the hallmarks of this theory. Juvenile wolves yip and bark when excited or whine to call for
an adult if they are lost or in trouble. Another indicator of the difference between adult wolves and domestic
dogs is the relative ease in which we can get our pets to see us as their "alpha" figure. It's a much more
difficult task to convince an adult wolf, or other wild canine, that you are in charge.
The only thing more stressful for your dog than being the alpha is being in a pack that has no alpha, so he
reluctantly takes the job. So, now you have a dog who's trying hard to be a good leader, but really wants
you to be the leader, and he's getting mixed messages. If you tell him "no" or "sit" or insist that he comes
when called you are telling him that you are in charge. If you let him sleep in your bed even after he's
growled or snapped at you or give him attention on his terms you are telling him that you're happiest when
he's in charge. The fluctuation of the pack leadership can get him to a point where he will bite just to get the
issue settled once and for all. But, that's not working either, there is still no stability, so the risk is that he will
escalate the aggression. To make matters worse, when he uses aggression, or aggressive displays (which is
appropriate alpha behavior) you answer with aggression and things just get worse from there.
The irony here is that a truly dominant dog, real alpha material, is rarely aggressive toward his owner.
There's just no need. He knows he rules, you know he rules, there is no confusion. He's tolerant and often
loving towards his owners, if somewhat aloof. He comes when he's called if he's in the mood, if he's not he
simply stands there as if he didn't hear you. He only engages in aggressive displays if the owner gets way
out of line. He might growl if you step over him while he's resting or try to move him off of his bed, but he
picks his fights carefully and doesn't get upset at every little owner transgression. If your dog ignores you
following some sort of conflict or confrontation it's not because he's mad at you, he's using the social isolation
technique to remind you of your place in the pack! Did you think I thought this up all by myself? Nope. The
dogs showed me how it's done. :)
KING OF THE CASTLE SYNDROME
I often hear from people that are not experiencing any real behavior problems with their dog, but they want
an explanation for a very common phenomenon that I call "King of the Castle Syndrome". The call almost
always comes from the woman of the house. Jane wanted a dog and John didn't. They agreed that Jane
would get the dog and it would be her dog. Jane gets the dog and she's very happy! She dotes on him, she
feeds him, bathes him and brushes him every day. She provides him with everything a dog could ever want --
except leadership. John ignores the dog most of the time, but is not unfriendly to him. When the dog
approaches John while he's reading the newspaper John looks at him, then goes back to reading. When the
dog approaches Jane she stops what she's doing and plays with him. What has prompted the phone call is
that Jane is feeling rejected by the dog. When John comes home from work the dog acts like he's greeting his
long lost, beloved grandmother. John gives the dog a pat on the head and a "Hi there dog" and goes about
his business. Jane is upset because the dog is never that happy to see her and she always lavishes
attention on him when she gets home! During the evening the dog will lay quietly and happily at John's feet.
When he wants attention he goes to Jane and bugs her until she gives him what he wants. What has
happened, over time, is that John has begun to enjoy having a dog. When John is so inclined, he calls the
dog over for petting or ball throwing or to take him for a walk. As much as the dog seems to love Jane, he is
completely devoted to John. John has the attitude of an alpha. That's all it takes, attitude. It doesn't take
aggression, it doesn't take rolling a dog onto it's back and growling, it doesn't take hitting or yelling -- just
attitude.
YOUR NEW ATTITUDE
To develop your new attitude you're going to have to think like a dog! When your dog comes to you for
attention think of it as his way of saying "I'm still in charge, right? I want you to confirm that for me". Now,
think of all of this from his viewpoint. Way down in his little brain he's thinking "geez... I hate this ... all I want
to be is the adored house pet, can't one of you take over?" Compare this attitude to a 13 year old child who
says "Get out of my life, I can make all my own decisions, stop telling me what to do". The kid really does feel
that way, he's not making it up. Imagine what would happen if you said to the kid "Here ya go honey, here's
the address where you send the mortgage payment and here are the utility bills and you do know how to do
your own grocery shopping, right?? I'll be in my room, you're on your own!" As sincere as the kid is about
wanting to be in charge, he knows he's not equipped to handle all of that. He needs an adult to be in charge
of most things; he needs guidance and leadership. One of the differences between dogs and children is that
dogs don't grow up and move away and start their own packs. They are our responsibility forever. We have
to be their leaders forever.
You need to get your dog's attention and do it quickly and let him know that he's no longer in charge. This will
free him of the responsibilities he now feels as pack leader and make him more relaxed and happier and
much easier to get along with. He is pleading with you to take charge. His behavior is a way to push you and
push you and push you some more and make you take the leadership position.
WHAT DO I DO NOW?
FIRST 48 HOURS:
Ignore your dog for a full 48 hours. If you want you can start this tomorrow morning, or you might want to
take a day to think about it or pick a day that's more convenient for your schedule. Just be sure that when
you start it you can give the technique a full 48 hours of your time.
Give him nothing at all for those two days. No attention, no petting, nothing. Don't say his name. Pretend
that you have an invisible dog that needs to eat and go outside. Put his dinner down, but don't call him or
talk to him or anything. If he'll go outside to pee and come back in on his own, without you calling him, you
can do that, otherwise put him on a leash (without saying a word) and take him out to go potty and bring him
back in, all without interacting with him in any other way. Do not physically isolate him from you by crating him
(other than the normal times he'd be crated) or putting him outside or in a garage. The reason this technique
works is because it involves social isolation, not physical. The very important part of this technique is the part
where you ignore him. If he nudges you for attention, do nothing. Nothing! Don't tell him to go away, don't
tell him "no", pretend you don't notice that he's there. He may try harder, at first, to get your attention and
this is where you must ignore him. If he's able to get your attention by trying harder then he will be rewarded
for that behavior and you'll have a much more difficult time getting him turned back around. If he gets so
pushy that you have to do something, you can use physical isolation for a short time. Go into another room
and close the door or put him in his crate. If he scratches at the door or does anything that you feel you have
to respond to then put him on a leash, tie the leash to your waist or your arm and go about your business
without talking to him or interacting with him. I can't emphasize enough how important it is to not let him get
your attention -- even negative attention like yelling at him.
By the middle of the second day you may find he's sleeping most of the time. This is the relief period. He's
convinced now that you really do intend to be the alpha and so much responsibility has been lifted from his
shoulders that he just crashes. That's OK-- let him sleep.
DAY THREE:
Start the day the same as the previous two days. Let him out and feed him or whatever your normal routine
is, all without saying a word to him or interacting with him in any way. Then, call him to you. If he comes to
you right away, tell him to "Sit", pet him and tell him what a good boy he is, then walk away. If he doesn't
come to you when you call, turn your back on him (this is important!) and leave the room. No matter what he
does that first time (come to you or not) wait an hour and do it again. Call him to you. When he comes to you
and sits spend at least 5 minutes interacting with him -- petting, talking, whatever you want to do. Then, end
the attention time. Walk away. For the rest of the day call him to you at various intervals (an hour, 20
minutes, 2 hours, 10 minutes) and give him about five minutes of attention each time.
DAY FOUR:
You can relax things quite a bit today. Give him attention any time you're in the mood, but still ignore any
attempts on his part to demand your attention. Because of his history of biting you will probably have to
make this a life long rule --- attention on your terms only, not ever on his, but that's not too difficult a rule to
live by. He can still get all of the attention a dog would ever want, it's just that you're going to initiate the
attention and end it. If, months from now, you feel he's been so good that he can start asking for attention
you can give it at try. The way you test it is to let him ask for your attention once or twice and then the next
time ignore any attempt at getting your attention. If he accepts your decision (no attention) then he's
probably OK. If he gets more pushy, then he's probably on the road back to his old ways. It is quite natural
for a dog to try to make his way up the pack ladder as far as he can go. He may test the rules every now and
then for the rest of his life. Don't worry about it. Just say no.
DAY FIVE AND FOREVER AFTER:
Now that the issue of leadership has been resolved, it's time to start the Nothing in Life is Free program.
NILIF is a useful technique for all sorts of behavior problems, not only for those dogs that have a history of
dominance confusion. For that reason, it gets it's own page and is not repeated here.
WHAT ABOUT SLEEPING ON THE BED?
The alpha gets the prime sleeping spot. If your dog didn't already have a history of aggression you could let
him share your spot, but the bed thing can be all it takes for him to hang on to his aggressive ways. How you
go about accomplishing this during the initial 48 hour isolation period is going to be tricky. If you can close the
bedroom door at night without him going ballistic on the other side, that's what I'd recommend. If you can't
do that I'd try putting him on a short leash and tethering him to the bed frame. If he's crate trained, put the
crate in the bedroom and have him sleep there. I don't think isolating him from the bedroom is as important
as isolating him from the bed. What I don't want is for you to set yourself up for a bite, so do whatever you
have to do to keep him from reaching the bed. Keep the door closed during the day. Have him on a leash
before you open the bedroom door so he doesn't run in and get on the bed. If he's successful at getting on
the bed you're going to have to interact with him in some way to get him off of the bed and that's what you
need to avoid for the first 48 hrs.
One of the things I like about the study of canine behavior is that no one really knows much of anything! It's
all theory and conjecture based on our observations of how dogs react to stimuli, how they interact with each
other and the nature of their inter-species interactions. This treatment plan is based on my own observations
of dog behavior and what I've learned from other people's study of the subject. I've been using this
technique since 1990 and have had a great deal of success with it. However, there is room for error even in
the most classic of situations. Keeping that in mind, I don't want you to do anything at all that you're
uncomfortable with and, especially, anything that you think could cause you to suffer a bite. If this treatment
plan doesn't make sense to you or if you think it's the wrong course of action for you or your dog don't do it.
It's that simple. There are more theories and techniques having to do with canine behavior than you can
throw a stick at, so if one doesn't work it's time to try another. If your dog has other issues (food guarding,
dog aggression, fears) you may have to work on those separately. However, working on other issues without
resolving the leadership issue first won't work. Also, it's time to sign up for group obedience class! Class will
help you show him what the new rules are, show you how to enforce the rules in a positive manner and class
is a ton of fun for both of you.
©1991 Debbie McKean
P.S. I need help with this website! If you are experienced at such things click here: Website help
If your dog's aggression toward you is a new behavior it is mandatory that you have him examined by a
veterinarian before beginning this treatment. Everything from thyroid dysfunction to an abscessed tooth can
cause aggressive behavior. Even if the dog isn't displaying new behavior, if he hasn't had a complete physical
exam in the last six months, do it.
If your dog is an unaltered male any treatment for aggression is going to be an uphill battle. Neutering will
not solve the entire problem, but not neutering makes no sense. If 90 percent of his problem is hormone
overload, neutering will solve a lot of the problem. If it's only 20 percent of the problem, that's how much
improvement you'll see from surgery alone. If he's behaving aggressively and you've planned on breeding him
give some serious thought to whether or not this is a fleeting behavior issue. Perhaps those genes should
not be passed on. Spaying of bitches does not usually affect behavior unless the aggressive displays only
occur during a heat cycle.
WHAT IS DOMINANCE CONFUSION?
Aggressive *display* (growling, teeth baring, etc.) is one of the many tools a dominant canine has at his
disposal if he needs to control the behavior of a subordinate canine. The top ranked dog and the lowest
ranked dog are the two that rarely engage in aggressive *action* (bites). One rules the pack, the other
defers to the whole pack. It's the middle ranked dogs, the "beta" dogs, that will use aggression to further
their ranking.
Dominance confusion is created when a dog is totally confused about his place in the pack and uses
aggression (bites), or aggressive displays (growling, teeth baring), to answer the question "Who's in charge
around here anyway?". In a canine only pack there are clear lines drawn in the sand. The alpha gets control
of the resources, directs the hunt, breeds and makes any decisions affecting the group that need to be
made. The rest of the pack voluntarily follows his lead. The caricature of a snarling, nasty, dominant alpha
dog is not a correct one. The alpha male, for example, tolerates nearly everything the alpha female throws at
him without objection. However, their roles and their relationship are clearly defined. She follows his lead
when issues affecting the group are decided. The image of an alpha wolf throwing a subordinate onto his
back and threatening him with his life is not something based in reality. In a pack situation everyone knows
their place and the sub-dominant members of the group voluntarily roll over if they are being chewed out by
any higher ranked individual. If you've ever seen aggressive displays of this type they look and sound very
nasty, but when it's all over no one is injured or bleeding. Exceptions to "no harm done" aggressive displays
are when two dogs (males or females) are fighting over breeding rights, or when a younger and stronger dog
challenges the older, weaker or ill alpha. Another exception, and the one that is relevant to this discussion,
involves an alpha that is not necessarily ill or elderly, but is ineffective or lacking in leadership qualities. In a
canine pack situation there would be no dominance confusion because the ineffective leader would be
demoted and remain with the pack, would leave the pack or would be killed. There would not be a continual
struggle for that top spot on the pack ladder. If your pet dog is given the rights and privileges of a leader and
then corrected for not coming when called the leadership in your "pack" is constantly changing. There is
confusion.
WHY DOES MY DOG DO THAT?
Dogs live in social groups with well defined rules and well defined hierarchies. However, it's not all set in
stone. Within those parameters there is a lot of room for individual preferences. A subordinate dog, for
example, may protect his food from a higher ranking one. One of the less flexible rules is that in order for a
pack to be a pack there has to be a leader, a top dog. Your dog is getting messages from you that say you
want him to be the leader. That's not the message you intend to send, but it's the one he's getting. One of
the reasons this is so stressful for him is that he knows he's not alpha material. He might be shy or timid, he
might be a bully, but he knows he's not equipped for that top spot. The domestication of canines has resulted
in dogs that are perpetual juveniles. Our pet dogs don't reach the level of maturity that wild canids do.
Vocalizing is one of the hallmarks of this theory. Juvenile wolves yip and bark when excited or whine to call for
an adult if they are lost or in trouble. Another indicator of the difference between adult wolves and domestic
dogs is the relative ease in which we can get our pets to see us as their "alpha" figure. It's a much more
difficult task to convince an adult wolf, or other wild canine, that you are in charge.
The only thing more stressful for your dog than being the alpha is being in a pack that has no alpha, so he
reluctantly takes the job. So, now you have a dog who's trying hard to be a good leader, but really wants
you to be the leader, and he's getting mixed messages. If you tell him "no" or "sit" or insist that he comes
when called you are telling him that you are in charge. If you let him sleep in your bed even after he's
growled or snapped at you or give him attention on his terms you are telling him that you're happiest when
he's in charge. The fluctuation of the pack leadership can get him to a point where he will bite just to get the
issue settled once and for all. But, that's not working either, there is still no stability, so the risk is that he will
escalate the aggression. To make matters worse, when he uses aggression, or aggressive displays (which is
appropriate alpha behavior) you answer with aggression and things just get worse from there.
The irony here is that a truly dominant dog, real alpha material, is rarely aggressive toward his owner.
There's just no need. He knows he rules, you know he rules, there is no confusion. He's tolerant and often
loving towards his owners, if somewhat aloof. He comes when he's called if he's in the mood, if he's not he
simply stands there as if he didn't hear you. He only engages in aggressive displays if the owner gets way
out of line. He might growl if you step over him while he's resting or try to move him off of his bed, but he
picks his fights carefully and doesn't get upset at every little owner transgression. If your dog ignores you
following some sort of conflict or confrontation it's not because he's mad at you, he's using the social isolation
technique to remind you of your place in the pack! Did you think I thought this up all by myself? Nope. The
dogs showed me how it's done. :)
KING OF THE CASTLE SYNDROME
I often hear from people that are not experiencing any real behavior problems with their dog, but they want
an explanation for a very common phenomenon that I call "King of the Castle Syndrome". The call almost
always comes from the woman of the house. Jane wanted a dog and John didn't. They agreed that Jane
would get the dog and it would be her dog. Jane gets the dog and she's very happy! She dotes on him, she
feeds him, bathes him and brushes him every day. She provides him with everything a dog could ever want --
except leadership. John ignores the dog most of the time, but is not unfriendly to him. When the dog
approaches John while he's reading the newspaper John looks at him, then goes back to reading. When the
dog approaches Jane she stops what she's doing and plays with him. What has prompted the phone call is
that Jane is feeling rejected by the dog. When John comes home from work the dog acts like he's greeting his
long lost, beloved grandmother. John gives the dog a pat on the head and a "Hi there dog" and goes about
his business. Jane is upset because the dog is never that happy to see her and she always lavishes
attention on him when she gets home! During the evening the dog will lay quietly and happily at John's feet.
When he wants attention he goes to Jane and bugs her until she gives him what he wants. What has
happened, over time, is that John has begun to enjoy having a dog. When John is so inclined, he calls the
dog over for petting or ball throwing or to take him for a walk. As much as the dog seems to love Jane, he is
completely devoted to John. John has the attitude of an alpha. That's all it takes, attitude. It doesn't take
aggression, it doesn't take rolling a dog onto it's back and growling, it doesn't take hitting or yelling -- just
attitude.
YOUR NEW ATTITUDE
To develop your new attitude you're going to have to think like a dog! When your dog comes to you for
attention think of it as his way of saying "I'm still in charge, right? I want you to confirm that for me". Now,
think of all of this from his viewpoint. Way down in his little brain he's thinking "geez... I hate this ... all I want
to be is the adored house pet, can't one of you take over?" Compare this attitude to a 13 year old child who
says "Get out of my life, I can make all my own decisions, stop telling me what to do". The kid really does feel
that way, he's not making it up. Imagine what would happen if you said to the kid "Here ya go honey, here's
the address where you send the mortgage payment and here are the utility bills and you do know how to do
your own grocery shopping, right?? I'll be in my room, you're on your own!" As sincere as the kid is about
wanting to be in charge, he knows he's not equipped to handle all of that. He needs an adult to be in charge
of most things; he needs guidance and leadership. One of the differences between dogs and children is that
dogs don't grow up and move away and start their own packs. They are our responsibility forever. We have
to be their leaders forever.
You need to get your dog's attention and do it quickly and let him know that he's no longer in charge. This will
free him of the responsibilities he now feels as pack leader and make him more relaxed and happier and
much easier to get along with. He is pleading with you to take charge. His behavior is a way to push you and
push you and push you some more and make you take the leadership position.
WHAT DO I DO NOW?
FIRST 48 HOURS:
Ignore your dog for a full 48 hours. If you want you can start this tomorrow morning, or you might want to
take a day to think about it or pick a day that's more convenient for your schedule. Just be sure that when
you start it you can give the technique a full 48 hours of your time.
Give him nothing at all for those two days. No attention, no petting, nothing. Don't say his name. Pretend
that you have an invisible dog that needs to eat and go outside. Put his dinner down, but don't call him or
talk to him or anything. If he'll go outside to pee and come back in on his own, without you calling him, you
can do that, otherwise put him on a leash (without saying a word) and take him out to go potty and bring him
back in, all without interacting with him in any other way. Do not physically isolate him from you by crating him
(other than the normal times he'd be crated) or putting him outside or in a garage. The reason this technique
works is because it involves social isolation, not physical. The very important part of this technique is the part
where you ignore him. If he nudges you for attention, do nothing. Nothing! Don't tell him to go away, don't
tell him "no", pretend you don't notice that he's there. He may try harder, at first, to get your attention and
this is where you must ignore him. If he's able to get your attention by trying harder then he will be rewarded
for that behavior and you'll have a much more difficult time getting him turned back around. If he gets so
pushy that you have to do something, you can use physical isolation for a short time. Go into another room
and close the door or put him in his crate. If he scratches at the door or does anything that you feel you have
to respond to then put him on a leash, tie the leash to your waist or your arm and go about your business
without talking to him or interacting with him. I can't emphasize enough how important it is to not let him get
your attention -- even negative attention like yelling at him.
By the middle of the second day you may find he's sleeping most of the time. This is the relief period. He's
convinced now that you really do intend to be the alpha and so much responsibility has been lifted from his
shoulders that he just crashes. That's OK-- let him sleep.
DAY THREE:
Start the day the same as the previous two days. Let him out and feed him or whatever your normal routine
is, all without saying a word to him or interacting with him in any way. Then, call him to you. If he comes to
you right away, tell him to "Sit", pet him and tell him what a good boy he is, then walk away. If he doesn't
come to you when you call, turn your back on him (this is important!) and leave the room. No matter what he
does that first time (come to you or not) wait an hour and do it again. Call him to you. When he comes to you
and sits spend at least 5 minutes interacting with him -- petting, talking, whatever you want to do. Then, end
the attention time. Walk away. For the rest of the day call him to you at various intervals (an hour, 20
minutes, 2 hours, 10 minutes) and give him about five minutes of attention each time.
DAY FOUR:
You can relax things quite a bit today. Give him attention any time you're in the mood, but still ignore any
attempts on his part to demand your attention. Because of his history of biting you will probably have to
make this a life long rule --- attention on your terms only, not ever on his, but that's not too difficult a rule to
live by. He can still get all of the attention a dog would ever want, it's just that you're going to initiate the
attention and end it. If, months from now, you feel he's been so good that he can start asking for attention
you can give it at try. The way you test it is to let him ask for your attention once or twice and then the next
time ignore any attempt at getting your attention. If he accepts your decision (no attention) then he's
probably OK. If he gets more pushy, then he's probably on the road back to his old ways. It is quite natural
for a dog to try to make his way up the pack ladder as far as he can go. He may test the rules every now and
then for the rest of his life. Don't worry about it. Just say no.
DAY FIVE AND FOREVER AFTER:
Now that the issue of leadership has been resolved, it's time to start the Nothing in Life is Free program.
NILIF is a useful technique for all sorts of behavior problems, not only for those dogs that have a history of
dominance confusion. For that reason, it gets it's own page and is not repeated here.
WHAT ABOUT SLEEPING ON THE BED?
The alpha gets the prime sleeping spot. If your dog didn't already have a history of aggression you could let
him share your spot, but the bed thing can be all it takes for him to hang on to his aggressive ways. How you
go about accomplishing this during the initial 48 hour isolation period is going to be tricky. If you can close the
bedroom door at night without him going ballistic on the other side, that's what I'd recommend. If you can't
do that I'd try putting him on a short leash and tethering him to the bed frame. If he's crate trained, put the
crate in the bedroom and have him sleep there. I don't think isolating him from the bedroom is as important
as isolating him from the bed. What I don't want is for you to set yourself up for a bite, so do whatever you
have to do to keep him from reaching the bed. Keep the door closed during the day. Have him on a leash
before you open the bedroom door so he doesn't run in and get on the bed. If he's successful at getting on
the bed you're going to have to interact with him in some way to get him off of the bed and that's what you
need to avoid for the first 48 hrs.
One of the things I like about the study of canine behavior is that no one really knows much of anything! It's
all theory and conjecture based on our observations of how dogs react to stimuli, how they interact with each
other and the nature of their inter-species interactions. This treatment plan is based on my own observations
of dog behavior and what I've learned from other people's study of the subject. I've been using this
technique since 1990 and have had a great deal of success with it. However, there is room for error even in
the most classic of situations. Keeping that in mind, I don't want you to do anything at all that you're
uncomfortable with and, especially, anything that you think could cause you to suffer a bite. If this treatment
plan doesn't make sense to you or if you think it's the wrong course of action for you or your dog don't do it.
It's that simple. There are more theories and techniques having to do with canine behavior than you can
throw a stick at, so if one doesn't work it's time to try another. If your dog has other issues (food guarding,
dog aggression, fears) you may have to work on those separately. However, working on other issues without
resolving the leadership issue first won't work. Also, it's time to sign up for group obedience class! Class will
help you show him what the new rules are, show you how to enforce the rules in a positive manner and class
is a ton of fun for both of you.
©1991 Debbie McKean
P.S. I need help with this website! If you are experienced at such things click here: Website help
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